EDIT: Update and pic in comments:
Hey folks. I posted a while back asking for some advice on a future purchase.
To sum up. My brother and I are visually impaired and retired through that.
We have purchased a tiny 25ft narrowboat between us we use to travel around the UK.
And as our vision is getting worse (we will likely lose it eventually). I have some major electrical work planed this year to make thing easy for us to maintain.
So I was looking for advice on nylon printing. Yep it has to be nylon. Because some of this stuff needs to sit over the tiny hot engine plus alternator and survive diesel splashes amd bilge water etc while supporting electronics.
But some here also pointed out petg will work when. The heat is less high. So thanks.
This is just an update that i have just had the printer etc delivered.
I have a Neptune 4 pro with a tent and vent system to keep temprature and fumes safe stable.
I have a 70c filament dryer and plan to print Descicant hokder to be placed in spools with lids that hold hydrometers. This and some vacuum bags should allow storing the petg and nylon easyer. Then Microwaving the stuff when the meters are above 25%
Also those desicant holders look worth adapting somehow for the boat.
So now I need to replan my workshop to make setting all this up and using it easy vision wise. That will take a good few days.
This is basically a thank you for your help in the past and a "Hi ill be posting the mess I make learning how to get this workjng over the next few months. "
Thanks guys all the best
I remember you, how did you go with your raspi project? Looking forward to your updates!
Most of the stuff is together. (obtained wise) Mounting etc is a big part of the 3d printer. But likely after the engine room.
The smaller pie is planned to manage the solar dump. along with a diesal air to water heater (Bobil Van) Linked in but only temp shut off via the pie.
All the mounting etc comes after the bilge and engin electronics.
Likely early 26 for finisjh given our mobility. (edit: and poverty, that’s the bit that takes longest:)
Thanks for remembering
I remember your first post. Glad that you are still working on putting this workshop together. Excited to read about what you come up with.
If I remember correctly, you use a 3d scanner to get close-enough measurements of your workspace, and design around that? Is there any chance of us getting some pictures of your completed space once things are buttoned up, or would it be too much of a privacy concern? I’m super into confined, efficient workspaces and I’d love to see what kind of solutions you’ve come up with for your specific needs.
Some corrections.
The boat and the workshop are separate. My brother and I share a 25ft x 6ft10inch narrowboat. We tend to travel over spring and summer swapping over as we move it around the UK.
The tiny area I scanned (not well) was the engine room as it is under tge rear deck so low down small and cannot like many boats be opened from the top.
Hence the need to measure things to layout access.
The workshop is in my 2 bed home. So less crowded.
It is cool that you remember the stuff. When the boat is done I’ll def share pics. But my mobility and costs mean its likely to be a year or 2 before all is done.
Oh ok, I misunderstood some details. That makes more sense.
I’ll be here in a year or two for your updates!
Sorta inpressed you remembered my dull questions at all.
Most questions that get posted are the same question but slightly different situation. “Why does my first layer look bad”, “what is causing this weird noise”, “how do I diagnose this error”.
Your use case is interesting. I’ll remember it each time I see an update.
well, ill have the printer together tonight. Will likly print some petg experiments tonight/tomorrow. The some cable chains etc to get practice.
Ok So I now have the 3d printer up and working. ( yeah, slow for obvious reasons )
Pics below.
Basically, I’m printing stuff for the printer to gain skills. PVA to start, I printed a Bowden tube adapter. Mainly so I can run filament directly from the dryer when using hygroscopic stuff. https://www.printables.com/model/983043-elegoo-neptune-4-pro-bowden-tube-spool-holder-moun
Also, printer a few of these desiccant holders. But in PLA they seem to shatter easy when tightening the lid. So I’m printing another design in PETG ATM
I need to add a vent to the tent pefore trying to play with Nylon. So thats my next task. Just need to workout something.
These are the desiccant containers I am printing now, in PETG. Less pretty, but I think they are more functional.
https://www.printables.com/model/50375-desiccant-silica-hygrometer-spool-container-modula
Oh! The “brassic” guy! I don’t have much help to offer, but I didn’t know that term, had to look it up and found the tv show :D so thank you.
A tiny bit of potential help: you mention wanting to use desiccant in the boat. I’m obviously not an expert, but it sounds like a bad idea, as the stuff absorbs water… but maybe you mean in small amounts, so that wouldn’t make a difference.
Desiccant is used a lot in boats. ( in the uk at least where damp is an issue )
But is a different way to 3d printers. It’s more about directing condensation.
My thought is to build desiccant holders to mount near the boat windows. (not sure your location if you dont know narrowboat, So ill describe the issue)
My boat was built in the 1970s so is currently single glazed. We plan to do a complete rebuild of the inside and the glazing. But poor again so time.
This design tends to mean condensation builds up hugely on the windows. As the whole design of a steel boat leads to temp differences and the UK has high humidity. More so at water level of course.
The issue is the condensation then runs down from the windows along the wooden panels inside the boat. Doing huge damage over the years. One of the big reason owning a boat is costly. There is constant maintainance and replacement work. Im good at the electrics. But my younger brother dose most of the woodwork.
A common solution is to have a desiccant container with a water catcher below it positioned near the windows. This effectively absorbs some of the humidity before in condensates on the windows. Then, as the Desiccant overloads, releases it into the catcher.
You then need to empty the catcher and replace/dry the desiccant often. And honestly, it still just reduces the issue.
You can buy holders to do his. Sold for boats and caravans etc. But honestly they tend to be a bit universal, so not actually very usable.
Part of me thinks I can design a 3 part system that can be mounted. Have a drip pipe leading directly to the bilge rather than running down the walls. Then have slot in desiccant units that can be carried home and back and microwaved as we swap over.
Thanks, I think I get it. There’s a lot of humidity where I live too, so while not at the same scale, the problems are at least relatable. Best of luck with the project, it sounds like a cool but lengthy and complex journey that can really pay off!
