• 13 Posts
  • 126 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 9th, 2023

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  • Just use the regular Ubuntu or a Fedora distro. These have the secure boot system in place to coexist with windows with zero headaches using a UEFI shim key signed by m$ through a 3rd party program m$ offers primary major distro packagers. These Twp options just work. Otherwise you must sign and replace your own keys for secure boot. There is good documentation available via PDF from the US government that goes into all the details of what to do and why at all different levels.

    If you boot any distro that has a valid SB key and under secure boot UEFI will delete any unsigned bootable code as it is designed to do. This system works before init, so it is not a part of Linux or Windows. Neither of these OS’s is at fault in almost any instance, despite people complaining regularly. They simply do not understand SB and UEFI. Do not follow some random tutorial on YT either. People say the dumbest things in this space, and there is a ton of misinformation. I can tell you quite a bit about it in depth. Worst case scenario, you can use a tool called Keytool to boot your computer directly into the UEFI system and manually change your keys of the hardware manufacturer did not do a full SB manual keys replacement implementation. Gentoo has some documentation on Keytool, but assumes a very high level of competency. The easy way, as mentioned, is simply to stick to any Fedora distro that uses the Anaconda pre-init system (all of them) or use Ubuntu.

    I haven’t tested Ubuntu’s Nvidia driver implementation, but Fedora’s is flawless so far over the last year I’ve been using it.


  • I’ve done a lot of experiments with toner transfer and etching my own boards. The highest accuracy with the smallest clearance I can achieve is with old inkjet photo paper in my old HP laser printer. I have tried several different photo papers. They all act a little differently, but they all take up far more toner powder from the drum roller. I’m not sure why. It can be a pain to get the paper backing off of some of them, but when it comes to etching, it approaches photoresist levels using the typical overhead transparencies.

    Just an idea to throw out there. This looks great already.



  • Invisibly; by trying to post in it and encourage others to do so. There is not much management to do with such a small community. The majority of regular users watch the All feed, so subscriptions are really just a way to bookmark the community to post in it or find it more easily. For smaller or new communities, expect it to be more like your personal blog as it is unlikely to be something others will post in regularly. The majority of communities that are hourly-active were made prior to the rexodus of June 2023, or within a few weeks thereafter.

    Unless you’re in a very controversial space, actively micromanaging a community is likely an issue with the mod not the community IMO. The admins take care of the majority of wack-a-mole nonsense here.








  • I did proper assembly from the start where I cleaned and greased them when they were brand new. I’ve never had any issues since. No (cheap) linear bearings come with grease. They only have assembly oil and that is not even a load bearing lubricant; it is a corrosion inhibitor. This is a good thing really, because you need to know exactly what grease your bearings contain. You should never mix greases of any kind. They all have different formulations and will act unpredictably when mixed; often failing in a coagulant that provides no protection from metal on metal contact.

    Many cheap printer manufacturers will dab a bit of grease on the rails outside of the bearings when new. This is useless in practice due to the bearing seals. The seals are designed to let a small amount of grease out, but block any old grease from reentering the block itself.

    If the blocks were run dry without grease, they are contaminated and need to be cleaned out completely. Likewise if they need service and have unknown grease inside them. If you clean them out to the point they are spotless, and then you manually pack them with a quality grease, you’re unlikely to ever need to service them again for a very long time.

    I build my own bicycle wheels and service my bearings and hubs about every 10k miles riding in all weather. I was sloppy with how I serviced bearings for a few years before I really narrowed in on my issues. They must be spotlessly cleaned, without any old grease whatsoever; like clean enough to eat off of them. This is the difference between 2k-4k between problems and 10k+ on a daily ridden bike. Same thing applies here if you want to only do the job once.





  • I don’t know. It hasn’t been working most of the time and as far as I know, most of us use a third party like catbox.moe. 2.2 is a lot for forever storage given the big picture. Converting to a webp or downsizing/cropping is usually possible. Someone has to pay for the hosting service. catbox is just another human, as are these instances. Best practice is to leave as little of a footprint as possible.




  • Yeah, technically it could, but tape sticks really well to most filament. It is more likely that whatever came out of the nozzle was in a dead zone. The nozzle back bore is drilled with a steeper angle than a typical bit, but it is not so acute that there are no dead zones. Sometimes filament can sit in those zones, cook, and go wonky. It happens more often with high temp filaments like polycarbonate. I run a bit of purging filament with every change and rarely have problems.

    I would be more concerned about extruder gear issues with residue over time.


  • I did this recently, peeled a bunch of lemons in a fermentation experiment. The ones I peeled were extremely difficult to peel relative to oranges and tangerines. The tendency of peeling to cause a minor hangnail was particularly painful after around half a mason jar full.

    The worst part was that the batch got mold contamination after the first 2 weeks and totally ruined all the effort.