Really like the idea of thumb screws. But I can see them being to big on the board side.

But then if I can find plastic ones this would need less of an issue. They would still need to ne 5 ot 6 mm above the board. So they can fit. But positioning would be less of an issue shorts wise.

Another idea that may go well with aluminium sheet. Rives a collection of 35mm din rails to the 6 sides of the case. Then mount frameworks to them.

Yep with an inset rivet tool. I can set multiple mount points. Just drilling new ones when I want a different to pcb. If I can find a 3 high pcie frame I could mount to the case so it can be accessed from the side while the case is closed. It would be pretty usablele.

Its something I considered. What worries me is i plan to run stuff in the case. And foam will insulate to well.

Thanks for sharing.

Maybe once I have a working example. I planned to take pics of the tank testing. As I have some ideas to use stratification to make things a little more effective when solar is limited.

So will be testing that in my kitchen.

I’m a retired software engineer so plan to write python scripts. running on rasbian.

As I say. I think I’ll get a friend to do the soldering. Smt is a little hard vision wise.

Are they selling out? Probably if we are honest.

But if we are honest. We also have to accept that an organisation is sorta forced to think competitively.

We have seen pie and pretty much every other electronics manufacturer has had huge issues with component supply’s.

It is simply a fact. When 2 organisations both want the same items. The corperation selling them. Will favour the org spending the most and buying most reliably.

This will lead to even charitable orgs having to make choices based on increasing demand and supply. Rather then their goals.

The simple fact that commercial users want to buy more of an item then hobby users. Will force an org that wants to compete in the supply market place. To favour them.

PS yep when the engine is running the whole boat vibrates. The upholstery and layout helps with comfort. So sitting or laying you don’t feel it. But if (as now) I need the engine to charge batts. Things are noisy. And you can notice it touching the walls.

But annoying is more accurate then uncomfortable. Kettle on stove rattles etc.

Unfortunately the solder thing is part of the BSc for all boats in the UK and EU

The safty rules state no solid wires. All must be stranded to pass the test.

While solder is allowed. Its is strongly discouraged. And the inspecters are expected to ensure no wicking into the stranded wire. As it is a 1970s boat that I am completely rewiring and upgrading.

My hesitation is more about not giving any reason to question. Then the actual risk.

Atm Iafter your advice. I am wondering about replacing gpio pins 1,2,4 and 6 with ones that extend both sides of the board. So I can mount soldered connectors that the crimp to stranded wire. As well done crimps are generally recommended for all 12v wiring.

I’ll also add the reason we are doing this makes a difference. The boat is owned by my brother and I.

While we both have some vision. We are legally blind. The pie is designed to manage electrics in a way our vision cannot. Our vision changes often. And numbers are the hardest thing to read when it is bad. So this system is to manage the solar dump and hot water temps. Warning us if its been stored unsafe for to long. Also a few other ideas that came up. Because its there :)

The vision makes me soldering harder. Hence the comment about asking someone to ensure no wicking happens.

This is the io base board I plan to use.

https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/CM4-IO-BASE-B

Between to 2 :) its a 12hp single cylinder diesel engine. So likely a bit more then inside a generator frame.

It will be about 2 metres. But the issue is the steel frame of narrowboats carry vibration.

Part of the reason I am using 35mm din rails. Is so the can be mounted to the electrical board/cupboard on rubber shock absorbers. Mounting very thick wire the rail. 2x 50mm2 positive + negative. The abserde thickness is more about reducing voltage loss. As some wires not connected to the pie. Will run 14m and use high current. 20a

But the connection to the pie will link from that bus.

I may solder directly to pads on the board for power. Then ferrule and terminal grip to a voltagecstabaliser on the din rail. But I’ll likely need to get a friend with more experience them me. To ensure less wicking of the solder at the io board end.

I’ll be using an nvme.

Soldering connector on a boat is not advised. As the stranded wire can wick the solder. Making it more prown to breaking with engine vibration.

Where possible ill be using crimped ferrule and terminall connectors.

Thank you for the advice,