I think this happened to me as well. I had something pop my FEP film, and I replaced it, and tried a couple prints, but really didn’t like the whole resin experience, so I sold my printer.

When the buyer got it home, he told me the screen was cracked. We weren’t sure whether it happened in transit or not, and I’d given him a pretty great price on the thing with a washing machine and a ton of resin, so he decided he didn’t want any money back.

After learning more about resin printers since then, I now think it was my fault and I feel bad about it. Either way, I’ve definitely learned to check the major components before buying or selling something.

People have been trying to make Blender have some basic CAD functionality, but it’s just not there yet.

I admit I haven’t tried https://www.cadsketcher.com/ with it yet, though.

IMO, you didn’t get unlucky with the K1M or lucky with the P1S. That’s the normal state of printers. Most printers are hard to dial in well, and the Bambu printers work like a dream out of the box. Luck is involved for anyone that didn’t start in those states.

You can never get to “fully 3d printed” unless you can print metal, and even then the tolerances just aren’t there yet.

But if you want a 3d printer that’s as 3d printed as it can get, why not look at things that were designed for it, like Rook or Mulbot or The 100?

I bought the Kobo Libra Color and I love it so far. Previously I’ve had various Kindles and a Meeebook P78, and I like the Kobo a lot better so far. And I’m still just using it for B&W books at the moment.

The color is pretty faded, as you’d expect from e-ink. But I do enjoy that the book covers are in color.

I was actually hoping this was going to be a cover for my model, but oh well. :)

I have plenty of space, and I still sold off my resin printer because of fumes, mess, and general headaches. I don’t recommend it if you aren’t fully prepared for what it requires to do it safely and sanely.

My mother lost her shop because she was selling charms (on bracelets she made) that had copyrighted/trademarked designs that she bought from China. She didn’t produce the actual infringing part, just partnered it with her own stuff. She still lost her shop after a few strikes.

I assure you that Etsy is serious about that, but it takes a few reports to actually shut the shop down. If nobody else is reporting them, it could take forever.

Go ahead and report them. If they’re really bad about this, they’ll lose their shop immediately. Otherwise, it’s a very strong warning.

Edit: Also, if you really don’t mind them printing it, but want credit, release it under an appropriate license that states that. Otherwise, you’re only helping unethical people and preventing ethical people from doing it.

What are you using for a probe? I’ve guessing the first layer problem is something subtle to do with your probe. If it’s a Tap, it’s probably filament on the nozzle and you’ll need to clean it before each print.

I used an older Cura that I already had installed (instead of Orca 2 that I’ve been using) and the underextrusion pattern is different, but still there.

When I’ve had something like that (or just underextrusion randomly part way through a print) I’ve decided it was a clog and did a “cold pull” on the filament to fix it and it seemed to work. It can be insidious because it sometimes clog and sometimes doesn’t.

Though, I’ve also had people suggest it was “heat creep” where the heat gets too far upwards and melts the filament too early.

Yeah, it’s pretty weird. I appreciate the help, though!

I’ll probably post over there soon. I’m a little burnt out by it at the moment.

I turned pressure advance to 0 in both Orca and Klipper, and saw no difference. :(

I’ve cleaned the bed and not applied 3DLAC, and it hasn’t helped.

I’d call that a leak rather than a clog. :)

I tried a never-used nozzle with no difference.

The bed hasn’t been cleaned in a while, but the parts that aren’t underextruded stick very hard. And it happens the same in every place on the bed (I’ve tried about 8 now, always with the same pattern) and 2 different beds.

I’m still thinking it’s a pressure issue, where it initially doesn’t have enough pressure for some reason. But I turned up the KAMP purge flow and it made no difference, and extruding 2 skirt lines made no difference that I could tell.

My next step is going to give the bed a good cleaning… And even try the other side that I’m pretty sure I’ve never used yet.

At 15mm/s, it looks like the underextrusion is about half the size.

https://imgur.com/a/F0sXBvJ

I’m printing ASA at 30/50mm/s right now, and I’ve halved the pressure advance value without any noticeable change. I agree with looks like pressure advance, though. I’ll try a really slow print soon and see if that matters.

Printing PLA at 120mm/s had it show very lightly, but it’s still there.

It’s happening in multiple spots on the bed. I’ve tried about 6 or 7 now, and 2 different sheets. (PEO for PLA, PEI for ASA).

Rotating the square 45 degrees puts a pattern on the corner instead. It’s always to the left. (To the right, when flipped upside down so I can see it.)

I’ve tried it on a textured PEI (ASA) sheet in multiple spots, and a smooth PEO (PLA) sheet, same results. It’s always the same size and orientation, thought the PLA one was a lot harder to see.

The plate isn’t that clean, and I’ve used a lot of 3DLAC on it. I’ll likely try cleaning it again soon out of desperation, but I can’t see it being likely to change anything.

I’ve tuned basically everything, and changing my pressure advance value made no difference. 105 bed, 245 hot end for ASA. 60/220 for PLA.

ASA 105

PLA 60

I’ve tried with multiple different objects and all of them occur in the same place. If I turn a square 45 degrees, it’s now on a corner instead.