I’m of the general opinion that the hullabaloo about drying filament is largely not warranted in most cases. PLA is just not very hygroscopic and can sit out for months without any issues. Even PETG I don’t have any issues with it sitting out. The room I print in sits at about 50% humidity most of the time.

I keep most of my filaments in a box with dessicant that I bake maybe once a year, but I’m not convinced it is really doing much. The only reason I have a drier is that I started printing occasionally with materials that are much more hygroscopic (e.g. TPU).

SolidWorks and Creo primarily, if I don’t want to boot into Windows I’ve been using OnShape recently.

“Just about”

When I bought my Bambu they were simply the best out there in just a bout every way. other company’s printers were unreliable and Prusa sat around on their laurels for years and even now have only partially caught up.

Unfortunately the open source options for CAD have to come a very long way before I could even consider using them. Onshape is the only “free” option I’ve found that is bearable to use compared to the likes of SolidWorks and Creo.

It isn’t? All the slicers I’ve used for the past few years support it.

STEP is an ISO standard so it isn’t like you are paying licensing like you might with Parasolid which is owned by Siemens.

HARD NO. First off STL needs to go away and STEP files need to become the norm for sharing 3D print files.

Second, I don’t trust most people to create a properly printable file with or without supports, don’t add more crap to a hard to edit format that I’ll have to deal with to ensure success. There are just too many people out there that don’t know what they are doing.

Tangled spools are a user caused issue 99.9% of the time. About the only way a spool could be tangled out of the box is if the manufacturer had to manually rewind it and they screwed up.

I’ve got the same experience, never really had any issues with moisture for either PLA or PETG.

Pretty much every PLA or PETG print unless I want the textured surface of the powder coated sheet.

Large prints seem to peel off fine, and then I use the razor to slice off any smaller prints that don’t peel off when I flex the bed.

Cool plate supertack I assume you mean given there is an older cool plate available too.

Yeah having the razor blade scraper is a requirement for that build plate to get some types of prints off. I live the plate since I pretty much just don’t have to wash it or worry too much about accidentally touching the surface.

Yeah, that isn’t going to work. The nozzle has drag force due to the molten plastic so any tall and thin beams are going to flex as the layers are deposited.

Stupid question, you sure you are using the right bed temperature? The feature of a PEI textured sheet is that it self released the part when the bed cools down,.

Back when I had a Prusa I never had any success with the textured sheet and PLA, however it worked perfectly with PETG.

I’ve never really found anything unique enough that I’ve felt the need to purchase it over a free option that is available. Frankly, these days I tend to get frustrated by all the obviously bad models out there and just use my CAD skill to properly design exactly what I want.

Also I’d never purchase just a STL file, I’m opposed to the format because it is so difficult to modify. I might consider buying a STEP file if it does something unique and useful to me while saving a bunch of modeling work.

The STL export will take your nice parametric model and turn it into triangles. The software defaults of most CAD systems are terrible for this. (I’ll die on the hill that STL needs to be phased out and STEP needs to become the default for precisely this reason). If you add a vector in the slicer then it has the context to be able to choose the right quality when slicing.

I suspect the Prusa issues were because you had a bunch of people not taking care of the machines. My Prusa Mk3S was just as reliable as my Bambu P1S.

It depends on the type of person you are. Those machines you reference are in a class of machine where you are likely to have to put a lot of work into them to get them running reliably and probably more money than if you just bought a better printer from the get go. They are machines to recommend people who want the 3D Printer to be their hobby rather than designing and printing stuff.

If that doesn’t sound like you, just buy a used Bambu or Prusa even if you need to delay the purchase to save up longer.

This is what the Core One should have been from day one. I was wondering what Prusa was thinking when they released the Core One without doing anything to make it competitive in a market that had moved onto larger build plates and AMS units.

Their claims of larger print size always pissed me off, Z height is the least useful dimension on a printer.

The problem is that Parametric CAD kernels are complicated and expensive. There are some recent open source efforts but they are slow going. Just look at how bad Freecad is after all these years to see how difficult they are.

I’m quite experienced with SolidWorks and have used both Creo and NX as well. I can’t stand the likes of Freecad or Fusion because of that. Luckily I have access to the professional ones for my day to day modelling.

One option to look at is Solid Edge, they have a maker version that is free and it’s a proper professional package many companies use.