I don’t want to be the “Deputy Downer” here, but I can’t stress the important of the v0 (we say v-naught) plastics in keeping you safe when it comes to electrical installations - for those that aren’t aware, they are plastics that have to self extinguish once the fault trips the electrical protection, should a fault occur that sets them on fire. (ie: once the electricity isn’t making it flame anymore, it has to put itself out)

Here is an example of how even low voltage DC can fault, and had the LED strip diffuser plastic not been v0 rated, we would have had a late night house fire into the roof when kids were asleep…

PETG in this kind of situation just becomes fuel and possible a very, very, very bad day…

I know v0 spools are more expensive, but cheaper than just about any of the disaster situation alternatives, so I always suggest you prototype with PLA/PETG but print v0 for the finals…

I’d suggest hobbling those log links that point to active payloads etc - usually best practice when writing this stiff up, so someone doesn’t accidentally click on them…

They are now one and the same…

https://k9mail.app/2022/06/13/K-9-Mail-and-Thunderbird

I often recommend mailinabox for the same thing…

On android: have you tried Thunderbird with davx5 as the connector?

I have suggested people start with MailInABox and go from there…

https://mailinabox.email/

I tried the ellis3d model and while I hadn’t got all my start macros together, first time I ran it I crashed the nozzle into the bed and gouged it.

Later attempts with a 0.6mm nozzle also gave me inconsistent and hard to read outcomes.

Instead, I use this two box method on opposite corners of the front of the bed:

https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/how-to-confirm-your-pressure-advance-value-is-correct.23/

Since then, coupled with the rest of the ellis3D tuning guide, my printer has been DIALLED…

Check your z offset, first layer squish and extrusion multiplier, then pressure advance.

That looks like too much filament or too close to the bed. Some of the edge artifacts could be pressure advance as well.

I spent a year chasing those problems out of a printer, and had hundreds of FL tests that looked just like that.

If you’re interested, Ellis 3D tuning guide is amazing. (I use a different pressure advance calibration method, but the rest has been bang on for me…)

I spent a year trying to get my Prusa factory assembled mk4s to print properly. Prusa support even eventually sent me a full replacement printer that had the EXACT same problem out of the box.

I returned it, bought an LDO Voron kit for a 2.4 350mm and haven’t looked back.

The kit had pre made harnesses, which was 100% the right move for me.

(Incidentally, the drawers for my desk I was trying to print on the Prusa originally are now printed and finished on the Voron, and working great…)