Glad it worked!

In client go to settings -> playback -> Queue all susequent episodes

I never use shuffle, but check out is auto queue enabled

Thank you. It makes sense now

Get it closer to AP and see is it wifi signal

I will if i dont forget. Feel free to remind me.

I was reading other comments as well. You can also disable transcoding on the client side, the video will not play at all if transcoding is required. Also try disabling subtitles, sometimes subtitles require transcoding for some reason (don’t know why tho).

Got one few days ago and I can confirm its working perfectly fine. I just did software update on first boot, installed jellyfin and next thing Im watching a movie

I agree, its not even worth to try imo. Frame geometry is super important. Even extrusions can be painfull if they are not cut well enough. If you want the best result you should mill them (instead of cutting them with a saw).

3D printer tolerances are far from acceptable and then every material shrinks differently (+ there are many other disadvantages).

On the other hand, prusa and voron are examples of great use of 3D printed parts where you benefit from flex. Its a brave design decision that works amazingly well, but they can barelly print first layer without ABL or simmilar. Yeah…ABL compensates for shitty tolerances and we end up with bent 3D printed part that counts as perfect print lol

Intel g3930, 2x8GB RAM, 2x SSD, 1x HDD, integrated 1GB LAN = 30-35W. Kinda cheap here, 30-35€ a year

Idealy you want a server that runs all the time and some kind of a player connected to projector for streaming. You can use your rpi for server, but NUC sounds better since it probably has SATA or m.2 port for storage. Raspbian or Ubuntu doesnt matter much since both are Debian based and setup should be simmilar. Look into servarr if you are interested in automated downloads. Then get Jellyfin for Netflix like experience with your local library. Most clients support Jellyfin player and Im using android TV stick. I have just ordered ChromeCast with Google TV 4K to replacce my old 1080p Xiaomi TV stick. You can also install Netflix app on any Android device.

It is also possible to plug your server directly to projector via hdmi, but then you have to install server apps together with client apps on the same machine. I guess you need a wifi keyboard and mouse for remote control. Having 2 devices is better IMO, but it should work as single device.

Rpi or NUC can also be used as a player, but got no experience in setting that up and Android box is better solution for me anyway

I dont have the same usecase, but BookStack will check most of your boxes

I wonder where that extra 5 is coming from

Most likely PSU efficiency because they are bad on super low power. Still insane, 7W is nothing

2W is insane. I wonder how much it actually drains from the wall.

My server idles at 30-35W and turning it off for 6 hours at night (cheaper electricity) would save like 4€ a year. Its cheap here tho

I see the mesh, but cant tell what is wrong with it. Is your mesh about the same every time after running ABL? If you check any point on the right side, do you think your bed and nozzle are at the same distance after every ABL run, but sensor reading is wrong on that side?

Basically you have to identify is your sensor faulty, otherwise your bed or X gantry might be moving in Z over time. Faulty sensor can be fixed or replaced or just go to manual mesh leveling.

I would try probing the same point multiple times in a row and see what difference you see in readings. You could also do a manual mesh and compare it with auto bed mesh.

Move nozzle close to the bed, disable XY motors and move nozzle around while observing the gap. 0.1 mm variation can be seen by naked eye (alternative to paper method) and you have 0.6 mm according to your mesh.

Use a metal ruler (or something flat) and a light to confirm how much and where is bed bent, again visual inspection.

You get different map every time? Maybe your sensor is not trigering consistently? Is it wobbly? Hopefully its the sensor issue, otherwise its probably hardware issue (X Gantry or bed).

the right side of the bed is always printing too close

If the height diffetrence is always the same, you can try manual bed mesh leveling (sensor not even required). Create one map and load it every time. You can also just eddit existing map if you know what is wrong.

Thx for input.

I agree with you mostly, but there are also unfortunate examples even with big eu brand as well. Im not paranoid, but home 3D printer is more like production machine than kitchen appliance imo. They have moving parts and print failures happen sooner or later. Fire in a kitchen is not that rare it seems anyway.

Before reading comments, I wasnt aware that prusa is selling fire suppression system, but I guess there is a reason for that

Thx for sharing. Usefull information

This one would be more difiicult to mount in my cabinet, but the main reason Im eying can type is that I found multiple recommendations and also that thing cant be activated without flame afaik.

Im glad that people in this community dont have much experience with these, but that makes it more difficult to find the best product

My printer is behind shelly plug as well and I was thinking I could mount temperature sensor and smoke detector that shuts down printer through homeassistant and alarming me if needed. Testing and trusting that automation might be difficult tho. I do have camera as well, but that thing wouldnt help if shit happens while im in the deep sleep. Extinguisher would live on top of that.

It doesnt happen often ofcourse. It is super rare, but there are many horror storries on google. I think the biggest reason for fire hazard is a kitchen stove, still most people dont have any protection even there (including me).

These cans cost like 2-3 kg of filament and hopefully they will never be used and end up like a “waste of money”. Im spending money on this hobby anyway and this upgrade might help me sleep better 😁

Sorry for anxiety my friend