I haven’t touched Photoshop since like CS2 I think, so really can’t compare the two, but I will say that GIMP 3 was a huge enancenent to GIMP. It now has non-destructive editing. For my common uses, this is giant. Not having to redo 8 steps because I decided step 1 wasn’t right is so nice.

Of course Photoshop has done that for ages. My only point was that previous perceptions might be a little dated. And with the 3 update came with huge backend changes that will hopefully accelerate other feature development. Of course I’m sell on hope, but I’m excited for the future of GIMP. Also, now that 3 is out, they have been hinting that that are open to talk about a name change, which I think would be healthy if they want increased usage.

Per your suggestion, I went out and took a new photo. The blog post has already been updated, but here’s the image.

I agree. I really struggled finding good light once the acrylic was on. It was just too shiny. Maybe I’ll try a daylight photo outside or something. In the article there are better pictures of the individual components though. It’s also hard to get the 3D effect in a photo. I thought about trying to embed a short video/gif of it, but didn’t have any handy.

My experience is that their ass end ends up hanging over the sidewalk, and the tow hook takes an extra foot or so.

I generally agree with you, GIMP is way behind the commercial options. And is almost unusable by the lay person and is lacking features a professional needs, which leads it to be almost useless for the majority of people. I use it, but also get frustrated at it every time I do. Let’s hope 3 really is an inclection point.

I think you will find progress accelerate with the release of 3. They did a lot of groundwork and factoring, it’s one of the reasons it took so long. But now that the work is done, it will allow for more rapid changes in the future. I’m hoping it will be kinda like Blender 2.8 or Godot 3.

Thanks! The background is 5 different colors blended. That’s the magic of hueforge. The total color changes for that print was only 4 start to finish, so even someone without a multicolor printer could do those easily. Alice was 6 colors, but was changing multiple times per layer, so a little harder to do. My printer only supports 5 colors, so I had to manually change one out after the first layer went down (a transparent base layer).

I’m pretty proud of this. It’s for a gift.

I didn’t do the artwork work, Disney did that many years ago, it’s Disney Classic #8 book cover. But what I did do is worth through Hueforge for the background, and my own custom process for Alice. Which involved a quite complicated process of redrawing Alice in vector, separating the colors, and manually selecting the colors per layer to create a good contrast.

The frame was generated off my frame/shadowbox generator you can find on Printables. https://www.printables.com/model/1120635-frameshadowbox-generator

OpenSCAD lends itself to be treated as a function/stand alone program for generating models as well. Some of the 3D modeling websites even have OpenSCAD integration that runs it in your browser to generate the model based on the flagged configurable parameters. That’s powerful for basic functions like the mentioned adapters, because you can have a page that just spits out adapters of any size and shape.

Theoretically, a more standard CAD program like FreeCAD can use OpenSCAD for a standard parts library like threads, screws, bolts, sprints and allow for custom creation of those outside the standard. FreeCAD has some OpenSCAD support, but I’m not sure if it uses it in that way.

On the internet, nobody knows your a baby face.

If it works, then great. I recommend getting a kitchen sale out so you know when you need to chump it up for sure.

I’ve been trying to get better about using the full roll. I’ve taken to weighing the roll to see if I have enough. Thankfully most rolls will list the weight of the spool itself. I’ve gotten similar close results, I feel a lot better about throwing away like 2 foot of filament instead of like 20 turns. The tough part is finding prints that are so small.

I want a Core One, but am holding out for the kit version, which I haven’t seen anything announcing a release date. I can’t really blame them, I’m guessing 75% or more of their printers are sold prebuilt, but I enjoy getting my hands dirty and knowing exactly how my printers work.

Thanks for posting this. I, too, have a FreeCAD model on Printables that I was using an embedded spreadsheet for, but I never noticed the “alias” text box. That will pretty up my model so much. I’ve been doing cell number references like “B8” and it is both ugly and painful.

It’s getting a lot better. It reminds me of how Blender took off. I’ve been messing with it and just updated to 1.0. I think it has a lot of work left for casual user onboarding, but the bugs are less and the crashes less common than ever. It’s getting there. Hopefully the foundation they set with 1.0 will propel them into the future.

I’ve not tried it, but I know some people claim that you can use your printer’s heated bed to dry it out. Probably not the most energy efficient way to do it, but seems like it would work.

I’ve been using and reasonably satisfied with A.R.M. https://github.com/automatic-ripping-machine/automatic-ripping-machine

It uses MakeMKV and Handbrake, but streamlines the whole process.

Meshtastic is a great one. People are making all kinds of software for it. I saw someone developing a BBS for it. For those who want a summary: Meshtastic is a very low bandwidth radio system for creating mesh networks. The speed of data transfer is similar to the modems of the 80s, so you aren’t transferring anything but text. But the range is good and the hardware is cheap, and it is completely stand alone. It can normally pair with something like a phone for ease of access, but has its own dedicated device for a radio.

In this case, "web’ means web browsers, not servers. Godot projects can be exported as static web pages. Sure, the storage is someone else’s linux box, but execution happens on your local device.

And here, it can be as little a 6 minutes by car, assuming good light timing, and a max of 15 minutes, assuming terrible timing and unusual traffic.