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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 30th, 2023

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  • I am old enough to remember when they only had manual screw drivers and thicker wood screws that needed to be pre-drilled and lubed with soap.

    Go buy a modern “cheap” wood screw. Not a deck screw. An actual wood screw. Pre-drill the correct size hole, including the countersink, and use the correct size manual Phillips screwdriver. You will never strip out the screws.

    Now take a 500 RPM impact driver that has almost enough torque to remove lug nuts, a worn or wrong size bit, and a thin shank screw that was only designed to hold down deck boards and the slightest slip or misalignment and have this photo.

    We all do it because it is fast/easy. Just understand that you are doing things the convenient way instead of the right way, and you have to expect the stuff to sometimes not work aa advertised because of it.





  • Use a tool to push sideways on the joints and from the component side.

    Bad looking joints can still have a connection even if they look bad. If the connection has truly come loose, there will be some movement in the joint.

    When we were working on surface mount boards, we would use a sewing needle and run it down the pins, and listen to the sound. The needle crossing a solid pin will make a sharp sound. If solder joint is not good, the pin moves, and you will get a duller sound. Dink, dink, dink, dut.



  • I have had various sticks and Roku highest end models and then got the latest ATV with hard wire port that adds Dolby vision and high frame rate HDR. I have a 2022 high-end TV.

    The video quality is noticeably better. Not sure of older ATV, but this is clearly better than the top end Roku. Also, I’m not sure if it is the same on older tvs

    The other thing is that you want to hard wire if at all possible. Even the best wifi can’t touch the reliability of a wire