For instance, the reverse of the US quarter for quite a number of decades:

It’s just that in this case they decided to stylize this one to make it look extra Hitlery.

Found the DuPont employee.

This was my thought as well. It seems you could use the G36 of your choice as the base and bodge on the upper rail, stock, and so forth.

I will say this, though, if OP is worried about the finish quality of the external parts: Getting a factory looking finish on those big plastic pieces is going to be very difficult with 3D printed parts and require a ton of postprocessing.

There is one, but it’s not very active.

!airsoft@lemmy.world

I posted my Luger to it a while ago. I should probably post more, but there are always other projects. Alas.

I rather suspect that if you use on it the wall will drop down briefly and allow yourself to elevator up to the upper surface where the trees and all are.

Meta.

If that’s all you’re doing you can probably get away with belts. The laser engraving, for sure. Most of the commercial diode laser options are already belt driven.

A CNC for what, milling? If so, I agree with the others here. Using belts to drive a milling machine is likely to result in too much backlash to be viable. The entire point of ballscrews is that they’re (reasonably) proof against backlash, even moreso than regular lead screws. We can get away with it on our printers because in normal operation the print head and nozzle are never supposed to touch anything so it doesn’t matter. For milling, backlash in your movement system will cause your tool to kick itself off of the workpiece when its edges touch it (i.e. hundreds/thousands of times per minute) which will make it chatter, result in lousy finishes and accuracy on your parts at best, and most likely wind up with you breaking a lot of bits.

Maybe you could get away with it if all you’re doing it routering wood, or something. The moment metal enters the equation, forget it.

The key to milling is rigidity, rigidity, rigidity. If you are having chatter problems, accuracy problems, tool breakage problems, basically any kind of problem, nine times out of ten you’ll wind up tracing it back to backlash and/or your machine or clamping arrangement not being rigid enough in some capacity.

I tried to do an ABS print at PLA temperature once. That sure didn’t work. Vise-versa is also an interesting time, especially if you have the lid on the enclosure shut. If you think you’ve ever seen heat creep, try having PLA in the extruder but running it at 260°C and the chamber heater on. The resultant jam required stripping the entire extruder head down to its individual components and prying it apart in the process, but I put it all back together and it still works. I didn’t even have any screws left over by the time I was done.

Like all Qidi X-Max 3 owners will eventually do at some point, I also once homed my machine without the steel build plate installed. This causes the machine to helpfully drill the nozzle straight into the soft magnetic surface between it and the heater plate. I shaved the high points off of the crater with a straight razor and continued to run that plate without any problems for several months after that. You’d never notice the difference, despite the hole in it.

IIRC Microban and related treatments work by coating the surface in nano sized spikes that puncture bacteria’s cell walls on contact. But the stuff is apparently not just one product, rather a range of products all lumped under that name with various compositions depending on what kind of surface they’re intended to be applied to. Sometimes the little nano-teefies do indeed contain silver.

It turns out he is a Chinese knockoff. The tag is worn and not all of it is legible:

?? Tian Hsing International Trading Co., Ltd.

?? Industry Zone, Changzhen ??ngming Town, Baoan District

Art. No. PA-12457(CN)

…And then materials and warnings. 100% polyester, don’t you know. It’s no good searching that article number, either, because it turns up exhaust pipes and not penguins. Go figure.

Thanks!

I don’t recall what kind of plushie he is. I can check the tag later. I knitted the chainmail years ago. Yes, it’s real – for a given value of real. It’s made of stainless steel wire.

Well, alright.

When am I ever going to get the perfect moment to show off this little dude again?

There are apps specifically to prevent this sort of behavior. Many of them can be configured to chide the person for not repsecting boundaries. My favorite was one I had back in the Android 4.x days which took selfies of the holder, inevitably up their nose at an unflattering angle, if they kept trying to swipe. For some reason people were always ready to stop and hand the phone back in a big hurry once that was happening.

Also my usual left field advice of making sure nothing is stuck to the underside of your build plate, nor trapped in between the plate and the bed. I’ve gotten bit by that one before, as I have recounted several times. Tiny scraps of filament trapped in between, or whatever. That will cause high spots in unexpected places.

My old Galaxy S5 would work without the battery, including bootup. So it’s not entirely unexpected that other phones could also do so. I would say I can’t imagine who would take the time out out of their day to just talk out their ass and claim something like this wouldn’t work without trying it first. Except then I remember this is the internet, and people do that all the time.

Regardless, good on you for making this all work!

When I was three, my mother said to me, “Eat up your greens and say your grace,” while on TV they put a dog in space and left her there. You should have seen her face.

The extra grit in your drink puts hairs on your chest.

Just take your P-38 and/or P-51 can opener and cut the top off. Easy.

I certainly do. I store mine along with my cable tester in a Beretta pistol case because it confuses people.