Lots of good recommendations here, my usual recommendation is that if you want 3d printing for a hobby to get a Bambu or similar because they just function out of the box for basically all materials. If you want 3d printing to be the hobby then a Prusa or Voron as others have said, way more tinkering to be had. Both are lots of fun though!

Glad to help! Mixing colors shouldn’t be an issue, I have done it in the past, also have mixed PA and PA-CF in the past without issue. I bet you could even find a tent with a window and run a PTFE tube to a dry box outside the tent then you could pull the first color out and put the second one in without having to open the tent.

Also, just to say it out loud I would definitely test the strength of the layer adhesion (especially between the colors since they might have different additives) for anything structural, especially if you might get injured if it fails, just to be double safe heh.

Last, at least where I am, PA is significantly more expensive than ASA or PETG so might be worth looking at those for at least prototypes of the parts. For example, I typically use PLA to prototype ASA parts, has usually been fine to swap it out with just minor tolerance adjustments and it’s way cheaper to print 50 versions in PLA while I’m working out the design and then I print the final ones in ASA or whatever.

I have printed PA and tent idea will probably work but the other person is not kidding, PA is very finicky. Plan on printing PA directly from a dry box as even sitting on the printer will ruin a roll of it if you live somewhere with more than like 20% humidity outside, also make sure your dryer can reach 85c to dry out a spool of PA, even with a dry box I usually dry PA immediately before printing it. As others have mentioned, definitely consider ASA or PETG or maybe even PC (if that printer can print it) where you don’t really need the material properties of PA specifically.

The tent will also probably be important for maintaining temperature of the chamber more than the smell, nylon doesn’t have a ton of odor anyway. You may need to put a blanket on it, you probably won’t need a chamber heater since nylon needs like a 65c bed or more, just make sure to pre-heat the chamber first by turning the bed on, I usually let mine warm for 20 min or more. It is alap important to keep the temps stable as nylon also warps easily which can cause it to pop off the bed while printing too So make sure the tent is sealed and try not to open it.

Sounds like an interesting project though, best of luck!

+1 for Raindrop, that app is amazing, I keep watching for a self-hosted version/alternative that is as good and they are getting closer. The killer feature for me is being able to highlight stuff and then when you visit the site again you see what you have highlighted (in addition to saving them elsewhere). I also pay for premium because it’s great, I don’t use a ton of the pro features either.

So if I understand this right you will need to change the network on the port attached to the synology in your UniFi configuration or set the vlan tag in the synology OS, I would do the former. It sounds like you just added a second network/vlan to the existing interface which means you actually created a trunk and are getting the old network untagged and the new network with vlan tags which the synology is dropping. Synology OS also doesn’t really support trunked ports through the UI (even though it does support a port that only uses a vlan tag) so it’s much easier to just leave them untagged.

This is awesome, I look forward to the weekly updates and have found lots of great tools from that. Keep up the awesome work, it is very much appreciated!

This one was a surprise to me, Boolean (as in logic/algebra) is actually named after George Bool.

So I stared at this for a while, particularly the pattern of the seam, I have a few questions. What type of infill are you using? how many outer wall loops? How much infill overlap (or whatever it is called)?

Also what happens if you rotate the part on the bed 90 degrees so the seam is on a different axis? Or maybe 45 degrees? This will make sure it’s not some sort of mechanical issue in one direct that shows up in this specific situation.

I know that all seems random but those are what I would check hah.

I think what that person is saying is that in your example the left part would probably be more durable because it is flexible and that the part on the right is less durable but more rigid, basically saying your result is expected and makes sense if you are wanting durability over rigidity.

I think that the part that is unclear is that OP is using durability, rigidity, and strength as they are defined by material science not in common English and they way they differ in definition makes that comment make sense. I’m not a material scientist though so I could be wrong.

I hope that is correct and makes sense hah!

Make sure your filament roller doesn’t have too much resistance as well. Since TPU stretches linearly way more than any other filament if it does have a lot of resistance then the extruder won’t be able to pull more filament until it overcomes that resistance and the stretch and it ends up physically thinning out the filament. Just a thought, hope it helps!

I agree with the other poster, this is wild. It seems like It is limited to one axis so maybe it’s a slicer or printer bug. Does it do it if you print it out of PLA? PETG is cranky all around but I have never had it do something like that hah. Is this part online somewhere? I can try to slice it and see what happens on my x1, I’m curious now haha.

ETA: you should also open a support ticket, they have great suggestions sometimes.

They also make this one which uses a CM4 but you can control 4 machines! I have been eying it now that I can get CM4s again, thanks for the post!

Yep definitely agree with all of this here, my friends and I have been saying the same things about Prusa too, they need to innovate or drop their prices in 2024.

I am also a big oss supporter but the user experience of the Bambu ecosystem is really great, lately it has basically become the same argument as iPhone vs Android.

To sum it up, I usually tell people that while both work, if your interest in the hobby is in the things that come off the printer then get a Bambu, if your interest is in tinkering and optimizing the printer then get a Prusa or something.

I have a mk3s that is modded and an X1C and I always reach for the X1 because prints basically always work in any material without changing settings beyond infill/strength etc, I don’t even calibrate anything on it anymore, their auto calibrate function is extremely good and I have used it with PLA,PETG,ASA,ABS, PA/Nylon, PC, PLA/PETG/PA-CF, PLA+wood, and even TPU. The Prusa does well but it is definitely more finicky but I’m definitely a core-xy convert now so my next printer will be a core-xy because the accuracy is so much better for tall and square objects especially.

I’ll second this for sure, I have been using zigbee2mqtt for several years with several different dongles and it is great.

hmm the last line in the log above there says:

“[Fatal ConsoleApp: The requested address is not valid in this context. This can happen if another instance of Sonarr is already running another application is using the same port (default: 8989) or the user has insufficient permissions Press enter to exit.“

So that sounds like that the container might be running but sonarr is not. Did you ever get it working?

Your netstat command shows a process named docker-proxy using that port, which confirms what the log says. If your container isn’t running you can try to find the process using it with netstat or lsof, it might be a stale container process or something but a reboot is often faster than figuring out what it is to see if that clears up whatever is using the port.

So I am definitely not an electrician by any means but I noticed on their site the ZEN05 says “Do not install the device in a place with direct sun exposure, high temperature, or humidity.” which seems pretty silly to me for something that two lines above says it is outdoor rated hah. I bet that is why they said not to use it though, heat+melting ice will generate humidity or something. I wouldn’t be placing the device next to the heating pad if it was me anyway so I would think it would work, your logic seems sound to me, I probably wouldn’t even have asked zooz now that I think about it.

That said, I’m going to need to hear more about these heating mats, I have some sidewalks that I don’t enjoy shoveling hah.

ETA: forgot to include, I use the GE version of that ZEN05 outside (since 2019) plugged into a GFCI outlet and it works fine, it definitely has very direct sun and gets all weather too.

In addition to all of the suggestions here you can easily do this with almost all major DNS providers today like Cloudflare and AWS Route 53, there are many community containers and scripts to keep the record in sync depending on what else you are using on your network.

the purpose of using nginx is to not have to use the port number in this scenario, the reason it works is because your DNS for that hostname still points to that machine that both containers are running on. Normal DNS A and cname records do not contain port information.

The 502 bad gateway error means that nginx is not able to connect to the upstream host for that hostname, this is where you need to use the port for the other container (5870). Do know that using localhost in docker will not have the results you are expecting, if these are on the same host you can use the name you have configured for the container as the hostname in nginx otherwise use the host IP, in your case it would be http://listmonk_app:5870.

Hope that helps!

Oh yeah for sure, every time I’m like “it can’t be spanning tree” it is spanning tree. Do you mean copper vs fiber? LC connectors can carry a variety of speeds but generally yeah I try to use fiber or DAC cables which are shielded wherever I can.