I’ve had some luck with attaching silicone pie mat to prints that I wanted to have a grippy surface.
Downside is it picks up any grime, dust, dirt easily. No biggie when you throw a silicone mat in the dishwasher, more of an issue when you can’t do the same with something 3d printed.
Another consideration could be large furniture non slip pads. Something made for putting on the feet of a couch/sofa for example, cut to size?
Not only that but they also had the serial input for joysticks.
So if you played some Wing Commander with a game pad or stick you probably had this card.
What about a dab of hot glue as a kind of medium between the head of a bolt/screw and the plastic it’s in?
This way you get some of the “grip” from a malleable material that’s also pretty easy to get ahold of for most people.
And that’s the point of the game. It’s an art piece on the horrors of war.
A deep dark look at what war truly can be instead of the glorified way it’s often portrayed.
Heavy like This War of Mine and Papers Please
Do you have 4 power strips? If not then just any kind of screw in clip for the wires themselves, zip ties for loose wiring, and something like this for the power strip should work.
Another thing to consider is making a data only USB ( I use a sliver of electrical tape over the 5v+ line ) to stop any power draw between the usb port and the printer.
And, of course, check that you have a good power brick since shoddy ones always cause issues with pis.
To be honest sounds like you’ve got a gremlin jumping from one piece of equipment to another so maybe prayer, voodoo, holy water and or appeals to the deity of universal fundamental force of your choosing could help too.
It took a bit to get used to because the mindset is different but once it’s going it’s great.
I love that I can make config changes easily without having to compile firmware.
If you ever decide to take the plunge feel free to reach out since I did it with my ender 3v2 years ago. Not that it looks anything like the stock anymore.
Looks like somebody else already has the config working for it and a step by step guide for setting it up on your machine
https://artamis.me/projects/klipper_guide/
One thing to note is you don’t have access to the display anymore since the display on the ender 3 is proprietary. You use a web panel (I often use my phone for this with mainsail as my ui of choice)
That being said there are other displays that can work with it but I seldom use my display for anything anymore.
Very slick. Once it’s completed and has some time to work out the kinks you should tell Steve about it.
Possible something on your motherboard has PCIe lanes that are dedicated to GPU when it’s slotted, otherwise they can be used for other devices?
For example here’s a post about m.2 slots that, when used, affect the PCI on a particular board. May be worth checking your boards manual to see if there’s something similar.
The answer not only seemed a HUGE disappointment, but a bit baffling. The pdf manual says if you occupy that 5th m.2 slot, which is the Gen 5 one, the Pci-E 1 slot is automatically downgraded to 8x. This I thought would be unacceptable if running a behemoth like the RTX 4090 I eventually plan to get, as it requires a lot of power and bandwidth.
I’ve used it for releasing an iPad screen adhesive as well as for warming cinnamon rolls so they’ll rise when our oven was in use.
Totally had the food wrapped with Saran Wrap all around and had something between the plate and the glass pan. To make sure nothing that wasn’t safe for food prep didn’t touch it and to stop from “cooking” the bottom by accident.
Funny timing. I just saw that a YouTuber I’m subscribed to has a scheduled live stream about 3D printed speakers.
“Taravangian was here”
Taravangian the next day: “What was I thinking?”
Apple, phonus mobilus?
I guess the trouble is that you don’t want to read the volumes where the db files are because they’re not guaranteed to be consistent at a given point in time right?
Does the given engine support a backup method/utility that can be used to copy files to some volume on a set schedule?
That one i get at least. But race condition is using race in the sense of a competition.
Mom. Thanks for doing this for me.
So yeah, you’re going to open the closet. No, the closet in the hallway. Yeah, that one.
So see the black box on the bottom… the one with wires, like spaghetti? Yes… that’s it.
All the way on the right side there’s two rectangles. I said rectangles…. like squares, yes…
The one all the way to right is a button. You push it in… no, it’s ok, I appreciate you doing this… yes, this would be funny if I were a doctor… no, it won’t break anything. So you just press it…
No no. It’s supposed to make that sound. That means it’s starting up. Yes, it can be loud… but that’s exactly what I needed. Lights? Yep, those are good.
Thanks Mom. That should do it… wait… did I just hear you hit the light switch in the closet?
Can you tell me if there’s lights on the black box… No? And it’s quiet. Yeah… I figured.
Ok Mom, so what I need you to do is turn on the light switch you just hit. Right, that one. Good.
Now… remember that button, yep, the square, I need you to press it again…
Ah yes, the “we’re young enough to have another kid” parenting method
Exactly. Back breaking work but this is so much better than any other manual alternatives.
Not natively no. What you’re looking for is this
Achieve true 3D printing with non planar slicing Note: Check the update below
Conical Slicing: A different angle of 3D printing
Not something easily done with slicers and there are hacks to do things like this but nothing that works out of the box and it’s a tough challenge with various nozzles, toolheads, material shrink properties
Edit: More recent update that could be of interest
Non-planar 3D printing in a modern slicer thanks to the community