Ok fair, i was comparing between LDO kits. If you go outside them sure, but then a non-LDO Rook will also be half as much and even more affordable

A voron 0.2 kit costs $650 🙃

If you’re interested in tinkering but a Voron is just too expensive, I’d suggest the Rook 2020 MK2 from Rolohaun. You can get an LDO kit for the MK1 alongside an MK2 upgrade kit. It’s coreXY but it’s both cheaper and more beginner friendly than a Voron. (1, 2, 3)

I would add to this, see if your local library either already offers such a service, or else would consider it if enough people ask. The one I work for does it and our prices are much, much lower than similar commercial services.

As someone who has used an Ultimaker S5 Pro and a Snapmaker Artisan at work for many years now… go open source. This name brand shit is not a single iota more reliable/less finicky/more performant, in my experience. Build a Voron or a Rook or a Lemontron or a K3 or a Rat Rig, etc. If you need help, see if your local public library has a makerspace that can assist or at least lend you the tools.

Clickable link: !arcadesticks@lemmy.world

Mostly so i can use it myself without having to navigate away from this post to sub the community hehe

Well unfortunately, since we live on a burning down planet, that’s not a factor that can be conscionably reconsidered…

On the other hand, we also work with post-consumer recycled PLA, PA-CF, HIPS, and PETg, and none of them seem to behave appreciably worse than their virgin counterparts.

Oh you’re not wrong lol, that’s true!

I print in recycled PP-GF (glass fiber polypropylene) reclaimed from fishing nets at work sometimes, and the tape trick only half works for me. It sticks to the tape just fine but the tape doesn’t stick to the glass bed… Based on this video, maybe we just need better tape! The PP-specfic MagiGoo barely helps at all. Also, one would think the glass fiber would make it warp less but it absolutely hasn’t lol.

Maybe on paper this stuff isn’t super toxic, but mine produces easily one of the worst chemical smells of any filament we’ve used, for some reason.

Anyway, once you do get it to print successfully, it really is totally indestructible. Try to find post-consumer recycled stuff though, as hard as that is to do.

Oh, afaik even the typical SLA resin is “safe” in the sense that when it’s completely cured, it’s non-toxic (for now). But that doesn’t help with the eventual degradation and microplastics, unfortunately. Also, people are wayyyyyyyy more careless with the uncured stuff and the fumes than they ought to be…

As far as the dental stuff is concerned, I have no idea if it’s actually different and in what way. My guess is, either it must be the same, or else it’s just so expensive that nobody sells it for the hobbyist market. If you find out different I’d love to know, a chance to sustainably resin print would be awesome!

However, if you look into this, watch out for the massive amount of greenwashing in this industry. They’re doing stuff like selling the same old resin and calling it “eco friendly” or w/e just because they’ve like thrown some seaweed filler in it. Lying about the dangers, all sorts of stuff.

This will be very exciting, when/if they ever perfect a photopolymer resin that is formaldehyde free, doesn’t depend on fossil fuel byproducts, and doesn’t degrade into some of the worst micorplastics out there.

Now that it’s a thing, I always try checking the public Manyfold instance first! Do those federate here yet? Prolly something like @q8vfvg1f7m3k@3dprint.social ?

Ooh neat! Does any old filament work for silicone molding? I could imagine for some it might like stick or be harder to remove

This is really cool! What kinda plastic are you filling the molds with? I don’t know much about fishing lures

In advance, I always plan to at least make them from biodegradable PHA so I’m not contributing to micro plastics. But also I hate wasting my precious PHA on it, because the stuff is so hard to get lol

Yeahhhh, the makerspace I work at gets constant requests for these kinda things and it irritates me to no end… Totally feel your frustration.

Whoa this is awesome. There are soooo many obscure seeds I’d like to get, but that aren’t buyable! Definitely joining.

I definitely agree lol, that’s why I teach people how in the local library makerspace. We’ve a really nice Mitutoyo accurate down to 0.02mm!

From a big vernier caliper fan, this RULES!! 😍

This rules, can’t wait to see how federation works!! It seems like each project shows up in the fediverse as an actor? Like for example this project: @3dc33whtlsnx@3dprint.social

I kind of naively thought they’d show up as posts or something. Maybe what this means is, all the subcontent of the project show up as posts instead? If so, that seems pretty neat! Like potentially the 3d files themselves federate out as posts?

Not sure why I’m wildly speculating when all this is surely documented somewhere lol