That’s what I was thinking about saying too… They’re probably still mostly right, in the sense that this is a company and companies are almost always primarily concerned with their profit margin, not the environment. However like you said, most things now are made out of plastic, most plastics are made from fossil fuels, and fossil fuels need to be retired like yesterday.

WHOAAAA this is so exciting!! Nevermind the awesome mechanical properties, let’s hear it for the somewhat better environmental impacts!

Materials science folk will hopefully weigh in on this, but it’s my understanding that PA11 is more sustainably produced, but breaks down at a similar rate to other polyamides? I think I heard they did find some things that’ll eat it though.

Either way, an improvement is an improvement. Now if only Prusament would get into PHA 😈

Does that bed have a PEI coating? PETg can stick to PEI so well that the combination is relatively well known for destroying beds. Plenty of people still print that way without issue, but it depends on having your first layer really well dialed in, or putting some adhesive between the two.

Oh wow, I hope I’m weird enough to get covered here lol. Seems like a fedi badge of honor

This is amazing!!

They are claiming it, maybe it’s in their slicer? Although a lie seems pretty plausible too lol

I definitely don’t like the looks of it, from the fact they don’t list any specs whatsoever to the claiming “it’s got AI!” or whatever. The last brand of printers I’ve seen that looked this shady had vendor lock-in SO BAD that, when the company went under, all the printers they sold got kind of soft bricked.

However, I’m assuming you’re looking at the ~$180 base model? At that price, veryy little else exists, admittedly…

I think Creality’s cheapest printer is probably like $20 more, but if you can swing it, that’s what I’d go with. For the following reasons:

• They actually tell you exactly what goes in the thing.
• There’s a very strong aftermarket repairs/mods scene built up around them.
• There are entire projects built around converting cheap Crealities into other things, for if you outgrow it.
• It’s like the closest you can get to no vender lock-in without building/buying an open source one.

Like others have said, if you’re just trying to make a raised version of a simple flat design, that’s easy. Ideally convert it to a vector first, and then import it into just about any CAD software. Even TinkerCAD can do that.

If it’s more of a real 3d object, i.e. varies across a few dimensions, first consider how complicated it is. As long as there aren’t too many organic curves, the best route might be to take careful measurements and recreate it from scratch in CAD.

Finally, if none of those options are possible, it’s time for photogrammetry. Mix up a simple solution of isopropyl and zinc oxide (or anything talc-like i guess, I dunno), and use a quality sprayer bottle to speckle your object with it. Try to illuminate the object well from only a single source. If you can, pick up some cheap cross polarizing filters, use one on the light source and one on the camera. Take shots at the same distance from as many angles as you can, covering the whole object, ideally with a matte background. As mentioned, Meshroom is pretty decent at turning such a photoset into a decent object, but it does rely on you having a reasonably powerful PC. Alternatively, OpenScan offers a free cloud based option. (They’re also just very cool people who do lotttsss of other stuff, my makerspace just built one of their “Mini” rigs. Works great btw!!)

That’s awesome lol. I’m unfamiliar with the subreddit equivalent, this’ll be neat to see

Whoa, these hurt my brainnn lol. It’s so close to making some kinda sense that you can’t help but try to read it as if it did

I’ve never tried without an enclosure, because it smells way more poisonous than the internet says it is. Hard to imagine it being any harder to print than it already is though, I’d imagine it’s fine

It’s not too hard to remove from the bed. It will, however, become one with the print itself lol

Polypropylene, hands down. Most plastic thingies that’re meant to bend constantly without wearing out are PP. Like those little straw caps attached to big drink tumblers? The bendy part, if not the whole hinge, is usually PP i think. I think generally things that could be described as “living hinges”.

I will say though, that it’s easily the most difficult filament I’ve ever had the displeasure of printing. It absolutely REFUSES to stick to literally anything but other polypropylene lol. What you do is just put some packing tape on your bed, that stuff’s made of PP as well.

If I had that amount for a printer, I’d get an LDO Delta Flyer kit or an LDO BabyBelt Pro kit. Maybe even 2! They’re pretty cheap last i checked

Oooh that’s cleverrr… Great job! Definitely coulda used this technique a few times in the past if I’d ever thought of it

I doubt this is it, but it kinda looks like what happens when your slicer has arc welder turned on, but your printer firmware does not. You get a bunch of unrecognized G2/G3 commands flying by in the console, and curves get weirdddddd looking

It’s always so hard to tell lol. I just know a similar thing helped for a similar problem on my Voron 2.4

You say this happened before on a previous nozzle, was it also a 0.2mm? Try cranking your max volumetric flow way down and see if that helps

Ty!!

I’ve helped build a couple 350mm Voron v2 for the local library makerspace.

Those are some big linear rails!! Can’t wait to see what you make with that. Maybe a belt printer would be good, lot of the huge ones are belt based for some reason. Like how about this one?

https://3ddistributed.com/mrrf-2019/white-knight-3d-printer/