What’s the pricing like on these normally?
It does look a lot more solid, and less nickable!
A very quick glance at the internet put it around £700 for their home one, a fair chunk more than the Reolink one (£70 ish when I last looked).
What’s the pricing like on these normally?
It does look a lot more solid, and less nickable!
A very quick glance at the internet put it around £700 for their home one, a fair chunk more than the Reolink one (£70 ish when I last looked).
Also a high probability they have a 3D printer and are super excited for something useful to do with it.
This is roughly what we have in the UK.
For electricity, the standing charge is 61.6p/day, then 23.3p/kWh.
And gas is 29.6p/day, then 6.1p/kWh.
(The numbers vary, and you can choose to lock rates for the duration of a contract).
There has been some discussion of it in recent years (after it doubled, thanks Putin).
Whether it is fair for people using less energy…But in reality, everyone has similar 100 or 60A connections to the grid.
There are tarrifs for very low users, where the standing charge is combined with the first kWh.
Once I’m off the gas boiler, and on a heat pump, I may get my gas disconnected to save the standing charge.
On a tangent, as you may be interested, we now have the option of flexible electricity pricing that tracks the wholesale rates for the day. Usually, it’s cheaper, sometimes even negative. Link.
However, this week there has been a lot of expensive energy, so it’s been butting up against the £1/kWh limit!
The biggest one was probably a combo of having an anemometer, and heat/humidity sensors in each room.
When it’s cold outside, the top floor of the house (loft conversion) loses more heat. But it loses significantly more heat when it’s cold, and the wind is blowing parallel to the floor joists.
I realised that because they’re not perfectly sealed (old house), enough air pressure means that the floor void can easily hit external temperatures, meaning the rooms have cold on twice as many sides.
I will (eventually) get some suitable insulation in them to stop this.
Well done!
I too love the fact that HASS is a common platform for everything.
It makes duct taping lots of different devices together into automation so much easier.
Not just 240v, but in-wall 240v!
Not even a chance to smell the magic smoke.
I’ve had a temp/humidity temperature in all house rooms for a few years now, and it’s dead useful.
Balancing the radiators and TRVs so everything heats up evenly.
Spotting anomalies (top floor loses a lot more heat when the wind is blowing)
And setting the flow temperatures for the radiators, as I can see the rate of heating compared to outside temperatures.
For a low tech solution, you could use cold chain labels.
They indicate when a temperature threshold is breached. So you’d at least know when a vial was spoiled.
They’re not cheap, mind, when you only want a few.
But I know that’s not solving the problem in the way you wanted to!
If you only need to know when a threshold is exceeded, you could make something simple using (for example) an esp with a PAYG SIM card and a temperature sensor.
Then set it up to SMS an alert when temperatures go out of bounds. And pick the SMS up in HASS (various ways). That way, you’ll only be spending a few cents each time there is an issue.
You could also use mobile data if you felt more fancy, and post straight to HASS.
It’s also partly the patent holders for H.265.
H.264 had a license fee, but it wasn’t ridiculous. It was jacked up for 265, to the point that a lot of software houses no longer bundle the 265 decoder license.
It annoys me too: Security cameras often use turnkey H.265 encoding packages rather than more open codecs, which makes dealing with the files using FOSS more of a pita.
I look forward to getting my hands on one of these! Just need to work out where to put it in the house first.
And possibly waiting for a POE version. But that’s a nit-pick.
Is it possible to test this out using a phone or PC? I really like the idea of local voice assist.
I’ve eliminated 2.4GHz wifi in the house for this reason.
The only downside is, I really need to get a couple more WAPs installed.
HA has been dead handy when I occasionally need to use an old device, as I can flip the second radio on from a dashboard.
So far, I’m only £150 down on cable and clips on my rennovation. And this is the decent stuff, AWG23, and double run.
It’ll probably go sideways when I spec up a switch with enough ports, mind…
I frequently confuse the two when I’m not thinking, or my browser has defaulted to the colonial spellchecker.
They can be shown on US television at least.
imperial measurements have been legally defined in reference to SI units for decades
This is the important bit.
Effectively, we are metric, but display things using the old units sometimes.
And you sometimes get people ordering lumber for the first time giving bad reviews because they feel they’ve been cheated out of some wood.
I just assume I’ll do 45.45 MPG, then I’m pleasantly surprised when the fuel bill is lower than expected.
I end up doing a lot of lazy maths, and remembering rough numbers.
45MPG? That’s about 10 miles per litre.
8 inches? Eh, 20cm.
Anything remotely technical, I convert everything to metric (and actually take the time do accurately).
Having the inch-fractions to mm table on the back of a ruler is very useful when using old drill bits and spanners.
I use them, and I love them.
They’re banned from the internet, and never complain.
I use both SD cards inside the cameras, and dumps over SFTP.
The general standard of integration with HASS is very good (IR control, alerts, streams, etc.)
If you want to access streams over a VPN, make sure that you configure the IP addresses manually in the app, rather than letting it auto-find (took me a while to work this out).
Doorbell cam: Lovely bit of kit. Button press and person detection hooks in nicely with HASS things.
I really like being able to answer delivery people (and be silly with visitors).
2-way audio works well in the app, I keep meaning to try integrating it with HASS now the latest version has capability baked in.
810A: Decent picture quality, the only fly in the ointment is that it uses H265 for full res, and a lot of open source things don’t officially support it.
510: Good value, and decent quality image. There is a firmware floating around that adds pet detection features too.
The ninjas will get you.