CO2 goes in…what comes out? I never see that mentioned in articles like this.

I enabled deArrow in my Smarttube installation, and it gave me the title as something like “Dry your dessicant before you use it.”

Gutters. Go to your local Home Depot clone, get 8 feet (or cut one shorter) of vinyl gutter and some clips to hang them under your desk. Cut to length, hang under your desk.

Nope, not playing Card Wars with evil robot Jake.

Right click on the auto- arrange icon. I think the checkbox is in there.

Yeah, it’s still not great.

Did you turn on Automatic Rotations in Prusaslicer? By default it’s left off and just tiles your part when you duplicate it.

BIKES AREN’T REAL!

Every single Microsoft site still does this.

Hydrogen Peroxide is perfectly safe to drink.

Because it’s H₂O too.

(Seriously, don’t drink Hydrogen Peroxide.)

Printable records exist for this one

PERCUSSIVE ENTRANCED MEN

I’ve had a couple: a cheap Anet A8 clone, and a Prusa MK3. I did ABS and PLA on the A8, and PLA and PETG on the Prusa. My Prusa is now outdated, and I don’t have the A8 anymore. Both printers look the same to a layman. Here’s what I know.

The A8 was dirt cheap. Like $250 cheap. I think the Prusa was about $600 a couple years later. The print size was the same or very close on both, (250x250, 210 high).

The A8 relies on manual bed leveling. It sucked. The Prusa has a magnetic sensor that creates a level map in firmware and adjusts the printhead to follow the warp of the bed automatically for every print.

The A8 has an aluminum bed. It required kapton tape, or gluestick, or some way to get the print to adhere to the bed. I eventually used a sheet of glass with gluestick. The Prusa has a PEI bed, that just works as long as it’s clean.

Both of them have an E3D hotend with interchangeable nozzles using an M6 thread. Not the easiest thing to swap, but pretty simple anyway. The built-in Z-correction on the Prusa only selects for a few standard nozzle sizes (.25, .4(standard), .6, .8, and maybe 1.0). That’s a good range and probably enough. You can also forgo the built-in Z-adjustment and use any number of first-layer calibration models on the internet.

Both of them have a heated bed. And of course heated nozzle. You’ll have to check the temperature ranges yourself and see if your materials match.

You’ll have to select a Slicer program to use with your printer. I used Cura with the A8, and Prusaslicer with the Prusa. It’s up to you if you want to tinker more (Cura) or just print (Prusaslicer). There are so many options here, it’s impossible to touch on them all. This is where you adjust the layer height, and as long as your Z-axis motors can handle the fine adjustments it should be fine.

Neither come with an enclosure, which is something to consider for certain materials. I built one for my Prusa out of an IKEA table, to keep furry family members out of it.

In all, I wouldn’t recommend the A8 as a beginner printer. I had a lot of frustrations with it. Bed adhesion, bed leveling, belt tension. Very few successful prints, but I learned what I wanted for my next printer. The Prusa “just works”, and I’ve had it for 5+ years now. There was also a concern with the A8 setting things on fire. The Prusa firmware can detect temperature runaway and abort automatically.

As a hobbyist, consider how much time you want to spend upgrading the printer. Both of these have a lot of “home-brew” parts on the internet allowing you to add various features (belt tension adjustment, better part cooling, etc.) My MK3 is now an MK3S+, and still going strong. I’m considering if I want to upgrade this to the MK4.

See also: 2x4s

(how is lumber measured in Europe? Are 2x4s called 2x4s? or 50x100s?)

that’s the way it’s always been!

Engineer here. It’s like that because that’s the way it’s always been. To change it would mean retooling silk-screen printing on the D-pad, and changing the wiring underneath. And they probably use this D-pad everywhere, so someone like me will have to talk to someone else like me, and right now I have phone shyness (can’t just be an email, have to call a meeting). I’ll also have to talk to a supplier and get them to change the wiring, and Procurement won’t let me just change anything, because it gives suppliers a chance to requote a job, and they’ll ask for more money. And then I’ll have to talk to Production, because they’ll have to retrain the workers, make sure someone doesn’t stop the line because this new part doesn’t look exactly like the old part. Oh, and Quality of course, need to make sure the inspectors don’t start rejecting the new parts (just kidding, they never look at parts). Then there’s Marketing. Since this is a customer-facing part, definitely need their input. Might have to change catalogs and brochures with new pictures.

No, they just got the good brand of gummy bears in the cafeteria, I’m going to go buy a bag of those, and then fill out these forms my new boss has been asking about. New boss, new forms, same old shit.

Bottles of Guinness used to have a little plastic “widget” with a nitrogen charge in them. When you opened the bottle the drop in pressure would cause the nitrogen to release and foam up the beer. But the size of the widget meant they could only get 11.2 oz of cold, refreshing stout in the bottle.

Then they removed the widget. I’m not sure if they did anything special to replace the foaming head, but they sure didn’t replace the widget with 0.8 oz of beer.

Wait, so month comes before day? I’ve been doing it right all along?

I worked for Walmart many many years ago, and this pissed me off to no end. On Thursday I would have to go through and increase the prices on everything that was going to be on sale the following week. Then Saturday morning I had to change all the prices back to what they were (or just a sliver lower). Then I would get bitched at for putting the wrong sign in place (these were supposed to get the “Rollback” signs, not the “Sale” signs, ffs).

Hated that job.

I always click randomly on the first 2 attempts to mislead the AI. Hopefully you did the same, and when the robots come to kill us the grease will freeze up and they won’t be able to move.

How big is this cabin? I can’t stand up in current seats now, where in the world are these going to fit? Where do carry-ons go?