My gaming PC is sticking with 10 for the foreseeable future, it’s my only windows machine and that’s because it’s a beatsaber and fusion360 machine and I don’t want to be bothered with fixing something when I want to get a workout session in or need to urgently design a part.

P.S. if anyone knows how to get fusion working in wine I’m all ears

One game I used to play recently started working suddenly in the latest proton major release (I think 9), it wasn’t mentioned in the release notes and it has no community around the game since it was released around windows vista, as well as being pulled from stores for many years (I still have it on steam) so I don’t think anyone intentionally fixed it but probably just a result of some system call being implemented or tweaked to behave closer to correct.

So yeah, it’s very good to test your broken wine apps every 6 months to a year because slowly anything I ever had issues with in wine is starting to work.

I switched from Google photos to immich so I could keep my photos more private (self hosted on my own NAS). I still keep Google photos installed on my phone so I can edit photos (the editor is really nice to use). Every time I open it, it bugs me to resume backing up to Google. This week I found that it had started backing up to Google again although I don’t remember accepting so I had to go and clear out all the uploaded photos again.

I hate this. Even when I decline to back up it usually then nags me with a second screen asking if I want to do a one time backup. Like, no. I don’t want to send any of my photos to Google.

My approach in fusion is to start with the most complex profile shape and create a sketch on that dimension and then just keep removing or adding features using sketches on the other axes.

For example for your radio holder (the orange piece in your screenshot) I would do a top down sketch with 2 circles connected with 2 lines (making a pill shape), times 2 inset from that (to give you an elongated ring), then add a couple lines to get the C shape. Extrude that and then do a separate extrude of the entire outline (without cuts) and set the extrude offset to the height of the model so that the new body ends up at the bottom of the previous extrusion making a bottom to the part - and with mode set to join on the extrude, if they’re touching it automatically merges them (saves having to do an extrude + join and just does it in a single extrude).

For the holes I would make another sketch coming from the front and then use the polygon tool to make a hexagon, followed by the pattern tool on the hexagon to make the hole pattern (a neat trick for hexagon patterns in fusion is that you can select 2 adjacent sides of the hexagon as pattern axes even though they’re not 90 degrees, the pattern tool will nicely pattern the hexagons hexagonally instead of just making a grid of hexagons). Then selecting all the hexagons generated by the pattern and doing an extrude from that sketch in cut mode to cut the holes. (One downside here is that adjusting the pattern count doesn’t automatically adjust the selected hexagons, you have to adjust the extrude-cut to select any new hexagons if you edited the pattern to create more)

I hope that gives some idea on how to build up shapes - I haven’t really used any tutorials but just kind of wing it by trying to make my first sketch of a part from an angle where that sketch can take care of as much complexity as possible so the finishing touches can be simpler. (Ie, if you made that orange part from the side, the initial sketch would be a square and you would have to do a lot more operations to cut off material)

I still have some 3gp/3gpp videos recorded on my old slide. What a pain. And I think depending on whether your phone was gsm/CDMA would affect whether it recorded to .3gp or .3g2.

Thank goodness it’s in HDR

It syncs your photos so typically your photos will be both backed up to your cloud and on your device. Photos in the app show an icon depending on whether it’s local only (hasn’t been backed up yet) or on both cloud and local, or cloud only (if you deleted the local copy). There will eventually be a feature that allows you to bulk delete all local copies of photos that are backed up (similar to Google photos app’s free up space feature) but for now photos will keep a local copy unless you select the specific photo and delete the local copy.

Since photos and videos are often local + cloud, that means if you open a photo in the immich gallery which has been cloud synced but still available locally, sharing to another app will use the local copy. Otherwise it will download the photo before sharing to the other app. So it’s pretty seamless in that way.

Like others suggested, immich might be able to solve the use case - it just means you have to sync your photos to immich for the server to index the photos. Then in the app you can search for any recognized objects / locations / etc so from your phone it works about the same as Google photos search. Like I can search beach or cat or whatever from my phone and find all of those photos, and it’s private since it’s self hosted.

I run immich on my nas so it does both photo backup and provides a nice high performance searchable app / web UI to browse and organize photos into albums. It also does private face recognition and tags people, which are searchable too (the most recent app update actually just brought advanced search to the mobile app) so you can select john doe under the people filters and search fish and up comes only pictures of john showing off fish he caught.

Damn. I managed to get basic insurance for like $75/mo but it’s one where they require you to install a tracking app on your phone for the first month that gives you a higher rate if you accelerate or brake hard. I just drove like a grandma for a month and uninstalled it after.

I imagine they’re one of those people who just have piles of trash in their car sliding around the floor and probably dashboard too.

For me (android, US) I had to change the search a couple times for it to start giving AI answers. I assume that’s to save queries by only using AI when someone isn’t happy with the search results.

For me (in the app) it only starts generating AI answers if I change the question a couple times. Presumably that’s to save costs on the AI by just trying a dumb search first and resorting to AI if the user keeps searching.

I’ve gotten it to summarize historical events and give instructions on synethesizing aspirin.

Yeah I was a little worried about thermal conductivity but luckily haven’t had any issues with flow - granted I also print hot most of the time by the advice of my coworkers at a 3D printing startup that prints a lot of functional parts in their in house prototyping mini farm.

Isn’t Miracast for sending video data? The thing I like about Chromecast is that the phone or remote app just tells the Chromecast where to load the media directly from, and then only sends playback control commands. That makes it a lot lighter resource wise because you don’t need to proxy the stream through a device like a phone that wants to go to sleep to save battery.

Those stacked focus shots and the 3D model is super neat! I’m looking forward to part 2. I’ve always just gotten E3D hardened steel and not put much thought into it (didn’t want to have to worry about printing glow in the dark, and not willing to think much about nozzle wear like some of my friends who love to buy sub dollar multi packs of no name brass and swap them frequently).

Hopefully this investigation validates my decision haha

I think they do this to game people who use the “rebuy” button without shopping around again. Several times I’ve bought a consumable and when I go back, the exact listing j bought from has doubled in price while many other listings are normal. That’s why I never use the “buy again” section, and if I can afford to wait I’ll find a lower or comparable price on eBay, and hope they aren’t just drop shipping me from a cheaper listing that I didn’t find on Amazon.

Note that the 2x10G is SFP+ not SFP. I was briefly confused. I have tons of SFP+ stuff but no SFP gear whatsoever

I always use VLC so I thought the meme was that it was one of those fake “codec not supported, go to this sketchy website” videos

I went with the DS1621xs+, the main driving factors being:

• that I already had a 6 drive raidz2 array in truenas and wanted to keep the same configuration
• I also wanted to have ECC, which while maybe not necessary, the most valuable thing I store is family photos which I want to do everything within my budget to protect.

If I remember correctly only the 1621xs+ met those requirements, though if I was willing to go without ECC (which requires going with xeon) then the DS620slim would have given me 6 bays and integrated graphics which includes quicksync and would have allowed me to do power efficient transcoding and thus running Plex/jf right on the nas. So there’s tradeoffs, but I tend to lean towards overkill.

If you know what level of redundancy you want and how many drives you want to be running considering how much the drives will cost, whether you want an extra level of redundancy while rebuilds are happening after 1 failure, how much space is sacrificed to parity, then that’s a good way to narrow down off the shelf nases if you go that way. Newegg’s NAS builder comes in handy if you just select “All” capacities and then use the nas filters by number of drive bays, then you can compare whats left.

And since the 1621xs+ has a pretty powerful xeon, I run most things on the nas itself. Synology supports docker and docker compose out of the box (once the container app is installed), so I just ssh into the box and keep my compose folders somewhere in the btrfs volume. Docker nicely allows anything to be run without worrying about dependencies being available on the host OS, the only gotcha is kernel stuff since docker containers share the host kernel - for example wire guard which relies on kernel support I could only get to work using a user space wire guard docker container (using boringtun) and after the VPN/tail scale app is installed (presumably because that adds tap/tun interfaces that’s needed for vpn containers to work.

Only jellyfin/Plex is on my NUC. On the nas I run:

• Adguard

• Sonarr/radarr/lidarr/prowlarr/transmission/overseerr

• Castblock

• Grocy

• Nextcloud

• A few nginx instances for websites

• Uptime-kuma

• Vaultwarden

• Traefik and wire guard which connects to a vps as a reverse proxy for anything that needs to be accessible from the public internet

Just want to second this - I use an Intel nuc10i7 that has quicksync for Plex/jellyfin, can transcode at least 8 streams simultaneously without breaking a sweat, probably more if you don’t have 4K, and a separate synology nas that mainly handles storage. I run docker containers on both and the nuc has my media mounted using a network share via a dedicated direct gigabit Ethernet connecting the two so I can keep all the filesystem access traffic off of my switch /LAN.

This strategy was to be able to pick the best nas based on my redundancy needs (raidz2 / btrfs with double redundancy for my irreplaceable personal family memories) while being able to get a cost effective low power quicksync device for transcoding my media collection, which is the strategy I chose over pre-transcoding or keeping multiple qualities in order to save HDD space and be flexible to the low bandwidth requirements of whoever I share with who has a slow connection.